The Physical and Physiologic Determinants of Sport Climbing

Paper Discussed: MacKenzie et al. (2019). Physical and Physiologic Determinants of Rock Climbing. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. DOI: 10.1123/ijspp.2018-0901

TL;DR: The paper seems to suggest that peak rock climbing performance depends predominantly on shoulder power and endurance, with finger strength, core endurance, aerobic capacity, flexibility, and balance serving as important secondary factors. These attributes are trainable and should be prioritized in climbing-specific conditioning programs. Body characteristics appear less influential, suggesting climbers of varying body types can reach elite levels through targeted physical preparation.

Despite its rise in popularity, scientific understanding of the physical and physiological factors that underpin sports climbing performance remains limited compared to other sports. In this post, we look at a study by MacKenzie et al. in 2019m which tried to identify the primary determinants of peak climbing ability across a wide spectrum of climbers, from novices to elite athletes, and across both sexes. 

The study involved 77 climbers—44 males and 33 females—covering a broad range of abilities classified via the French sport climbing grading scale (5a to 8a for males and 5a to 7b+ for females). Participants were carefully screened for health and prior climbing experience, and climbing ability was validated through on-site performance tests consistent with self-reported grades.

A total of 47 variables were assessed, encompassing anthropometric measures, muscular strength tests, flexibility and balance evaluations, aerobic capacity, and psychological factors like anxiety and self-confidence. Key tests included:

• Strength Assessments: Isometric maximal voluntary contractions for hand grip, finger pincer, arm bicep strength.

• Endurance and Power: Maximum pull-ups, bent-arm and leg-raise hang times, arm crank ergometry for shoulder power.

• Flexibility: Hip and hamstring flexibility via foot-raise and sit-and-reach tests.

• Balance and Coordination: One-foot balance tests and spatial coordination tasks.

• Aerobic Capacity: VO2max and VO2peak measured through treadmill and arm crank ergometer tests.

• Psychological Measures: Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2 (CSAI-2) questionnaire.

Relationships between climbing ability (dependent variable) and physical/physiological parameters (independent variables) were assessed using Pearson’s correlation coefficients. Principal component analysis (PCA) and multiple regression modeling identified the most influential determinants. A small-scale training intervention tested the effects of improving identified key variables on climbing performance.

Identifying Core Determinants of Climbing Ability

Male Climbers: Approximately 50% (23 of 47) variables correlated significantly with climbing ability (p < 0.05). Strongest correlates included shoulder endurance and power (maximum pull-ups, bent-arm hangs), hand and finger strength, hip and back flexibility, core-body endurance, and aerobic capacity.

Female Climbers: About 20% (10 of 47) variables correlated significantly. Key variables were shoulder endurance and power, lower-arm grip strength, balance, aerobic capacity, and arm span (ape index).

The greater number of significant correlates in males suggests sex-specific differences in climbing performance determinants.

Shoulder Power and Endurance as Primary Determinants

PCA and regression analyses revealed that shoulder power and endurance—measured chiefly by maximum pull-ups, average arm crank power, and bent-arm hang time ("lock-offs")—explained 77% of climbing performance variability in males and 62% in females.

In males, finger pincer and grip strength showed trends toward significance, indicating secondary contributions.

Secondary Determinants

Arm, hand, and finger strength were significantly related to climbing ability in males; in females, only lower-arm grip strength was significant.

Flexibility (hip and hamstring) correlated with male climbing ability but not with females.

Balance was significant for females but only showed a trend in males.

Aerobic capacity (VO2max and VO2peak) correlated significantly with climbing ability in both sexes.

Psychological factors such as anxiety and self-confidence did not significantly differentiate performance levels.

Body Dimensions Have Limited Influence

Body weight, height, and most limb measurements showed no significant correlation with climbing ability in either sex. Arm span and ape index had weak or inconsistent effects. This suggests that body dimensions are less critical determinants than previously assumed.

Training Intervention Results

Training focused on improving the main determinants—increasing maximum pull-ups for males and bent-arm hangs for females—led to significant improvements in climbing ability (2–3 grade increases). Conversely, training balance or leg-raise hangs (variables not significantly correlated with ability) did not yield performance gains despite similar improvements in the trained variables.

Implications for Sport Climbing Performance and Training

Significance of Shoulder Power and Endurance. The study confirms that shoulder musculature’s strength and endurance are paramount for climbing success. These findings align with prior research emphasizing the importance of upper-body and shoulder function but provide novel precision regarding their relative contribution compared to other traits.

Sex Differences. Males rely on a broader range of physical parameters, including flexibility and finger strength, whereas females’ performance is more narrowly associated with shoulder power, endurance, grip strength, balance, and aerobic fitness. This may reflect differences in climbing style, technique emphasis, or physiological adaptation.

Training Recommendations

The paper seems to conclude the following as regards recommendations for training:

Focus on Shoulder Conditioning: Programs emphasizing pull-ups, bent-arm hangs, and arm crank power exercises will yield substantial performance gains.

Develop Finger and Grip Strength: Particularly important for male climbers.

Maintain Aerobic Fitness: To support sustained climbing efforts.

Balance and Flexibility: Should be considered, especially for female climbers, although their direct effect on performance requires further research.

Limitations of the Study

The study cohort was recruited from indoor facilities emphasizing short, steep routes, potentially biasing determinants towards shoulder-dominant factors. Other climbing styles (e.g., trad climbing, bouldering, multi-pitch) may reveal different key variables. Additionally, the study did not assess climbing technique, recovery, fatigue resistance, or economy, which are important for comprehensive performance profiling.

HEKA's Comments

Out of the several papers on rock climbing that we have looked at, this one is the most direct and to the point. The paper can be downloaded freely - we highly recommend that you look at the figures and tables provided at the end of the paper for a quick understanding of all the variables which were measured.

The paper provides some evidence for what we have always known at HEKA : when it comes to non-elite climbers, gains are to be found in keeping it simple, getting stronger and applying the gains in strength and power to the climbing environment. 

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